June 2012 we traveled to Amman Jordan for 2 weeks with our Friends Sam and Sue Annabi. Along with extensive excursions through and around Amman, We took side trips to Israel, Petra, Aqaba,  and Wadi Rum

Click on one of the titles below to view the pictures from each part our trip.

Welcome to Amman

Our flight to Amman Jordan was on Royal Jordanian Airline with an 11PM departure and Arrival at 4PM the next day.  On arrival, Sam Suzie and their friend, Colonel Sam, met us at the Queen Alia International Airport.   (12 Hours flight time) .

Jordan is GMT(+3) which is 7 Hours difference from home and 1 Hour before Germany and the rest of Europe.

Getting out of the airport was swift.  Our immediate impressions were set for a "Vacation frame of mind."  as Everyone seems to be headed for a party or the malls.  Despite the traffic, we were greeted, often, by very friendly people.  Every food opportunity included seemingly "bottomless" dishes.  Not a good influence on the South Beach Diet.  But we quickly made up for this and kept well ahead of the next meal! 

After a brief rest, Colonel Sam, our skilled chauffeur  brought the car around the first of our evening drives around the city.  There was  a short stop  at the restaurant where Sam and Sam to put a hold on our table under the tent for a 9PM dinner. Our restaurant is under a very large tent and very open  to the air. 

The band did not take any breaks.  So it did seem appropriate to work off some calories with some dancing.   We were not lacking in encouragement once we were discovered.   See, dancing does pay off in the end.

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Dinner included a course of Veggies, Hummus, olives and more.  Entrees typically included Chicken and Lamb dishes, some beef and fish was rare in Jordan.

We had our first introduction to the Hubbly Bubbly, or Hookah.   While I never want to partake, I was pleasantly surprised by the aroma.   Fruity and Aromatic flavors were common.   There were no drugs. Shisha, is the name for the tobacco smoked in the Hookah, as mixed with molasses and a flavor extract.

 

 

Mt Nebo Madaba and First view of Dead Sea

The Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan is a young country, yet it is a very grown-up place.  And anyone with an ounce of wanderlust will be anxious to see icons such as Petra, Wadi Rum and the Dead Sea at some point in their travels. Today's destination was Mount Nebo.  

Mount Nebo is Moses' final  resting place.  It was from this high place that he was able to see Jerusalem on a clear day, far across the Dead Sea.   Too bad it was hazy here on our visit. Pope John paul II made a visit here in 2000.

The large temple here was under construction, however it does not take much to imagine the power of this place.

On the way back, we stopped for a lunch and a walk through a small town by the name of Madaba.

Madaba is Jordan's Mosaic city which is some 25km south of Amman.   The city likes to consider itself a haven of Jordanian handicrafts in general. There are shops and workshops devoted to ceramics, jewelry and embroidery.  It was a nice walk around town and the shops were very interesting.

We had a visit to St George's church which dates back to the 6th century.  On the floor of this church is a priceless treasure: the oldest existing map of the Holy Land, created as a mosaic on the floor of St George's Church.  All the key biblical-Christian sites are shown: Jerusalem is depicted in street-map format, with churches and gates all visible; the River Jordan is illustrated with fish swimming towards the Dead Sea, then retreating from the sea's lethal salinity.

 

Moses Staff at firmly implanted at Mt. Nebo.

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This is a sample of the mosaic on the Floor of St George Greek Orthodox church in Madaba.

Modern Jordan is predominantly Muslim, but Christian heritage remains.  The Virgin Mary Mosaic Workshop,  in Madaba, is staffed by women interested in learning this craft which was primarily done by men.  Mary remains as a role model for many Muslim women.   The store owner proudly showed us news stories on the Workshop, and photos of herself with Jordan’s popular Queen Rania.

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Jerusalem

Our trip to Israel started with an early morning pickup by a driver for the short drive to the border.  The processing on the Jordan side was quick and we boarded a Bus to take us over to the other side. The term NO MANS LAND as we sat for 2+ hours waiting to be allowed to cross the border.   On the other side, were long lines and lots of questions from the border people.   In good time, we were able to greet our new driver for our visit to Jerusalem. 

Our first stop was a view of Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives,

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In sight, was the Gethsemene Church, which was our next stop for a visit to the olive Garden.  We walked through the church.

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From here we went to the old city, where the whaling wall lives.

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We visited King David's tomb.  And also very close by is the Dormition Abbey, which is where the virgin Mary, is said to have gone to sleep before her assumption to heaven. 

IMG_6918 We had time to do some walking around the area which was quite crowded.   Many Israeli soldiers were also visiting the area. It was a kind of holiday for them.   They were quite welcoming and Lee managed to get a group of them to Pose for a photo.  Of course, I got a photo of Lee taking the photo.

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Next, on our agenda was the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. The Church of the Holy Sepulchre, known as the Church of the Resurrection (Anastasis) to Eastern Orthodox Christians, is a church in the Old City of  Jerusalem that is the holiest Christian site in the world. It stands on a site that is believed to encompass both Golgotha, or Calvary, where Jesus was crucified, and the tomb (sepulchre) where he was buried. The Church of the Holy Sepulchre has been an important pilgrimage destination since then 4th century.

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Immediately inside the entrance to the church is the Stone of Unction, which commemorates the preparation of Jesus' body for burial. This limestone slab dates from 1808, when the prior 12th-century slab was destroyed. Ownership of this site has varied over the centuries, but it now belongs to the four main sects: the opulent lamps that hang over the stone slab are contributed by Armenians, Copts, Greeks and Latins.

The Edicule  is structure which preserves the location of Christ's tomb.  Though the cave here was carved away by a Muslim ruler 1000 years ago, a clear history remains that this has been the revered location of the tomb.

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We took time to peruse the area around this massive church. 

You get carried away by the masses that walk the narrow streets of the city. You look around you and see the hundred shops proudly displaying their merchandise in your face, in your way, over your head. You are almost carried away by the sweet smells of spices that mingle in the air with those of a roofed market.  Galleria Malls before their time.

We found a mural which depicts the Cardo Maximus.

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Seeing this mural put it all in perspective that I was standing in a place which is something out of the bible.  It was good to be here.

On our journey back to our car we encountered some  people  being escorted by police.   They appeared to be from accross the border and were on their way home,,, we hope?   We were not in Kansas any more? 

We didn't have time, to visit the Coenaculum. or Upper Room where the last supper took place.   This was very close to the Dormition Abbey.

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Bethlehem and Masada

Bethlehem is a short 30 minute ride from our hotel in Jerusalem.   We did have to have our passport since we crossed over the border into the Palestinian territory which includes Bethlehem.    Our driver handled all the formalities when crossing the border so it was a comfortable and easy border crossing.    IMG_6989 copy

First stop was the Church of the Nativity.   An interesting women's choir from Fiji was singing christmas carols outside the church as we arrived.  Inside the church 

This building is the oldest standing church in the Holy Land.  Originally built by Constantine's mother in the 4th century, Emperor Justinian rebuilt the current structure in the 530s.  It was apparently spared destruction from the Persians in 614 because the invaders saw the depictions of the Magi on the walls.  Local Muslim-Christian friendship is believed to be why the church was not destroyed during al-Hakim's rule in 1009.

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Political control of Bethlehem has flip-flopped many times since. (The church's famous entrance, the four-foot-high "Door of Humility," was built not to make pilgrims bow but rather to repel looters on horse- and camel-back after the Crusades.)

Underneath the present church floor are beautiful mosaics of the earlier church. 

The Birth Cave

Underneath the church is a cave which tradition holds is the birthplace of Jesus.  People where lining up at the entrance to the cave and we learned that masses were conducted regularly inside the cave but in between, it was open for a quick walk through.   We were fortunate to time it just right to be able to get in.   Down at the bottom, is a Star which marks the place where Jesus was born.

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We next headed toward Shepherds Field, but along the way we discovered an interesting Olivewood Factory which appeared to be family owned. 

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A grandson, has taken the  lead to run this factory.  He took us through and gave us a small tour.  He also invited us to visit the roof of the building for a very nice view of Bethlehem from Above.

 

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Further along the way, we found the Milk Grotto. This grotto, with a Franciscan chapel built above it, is considered sacred because tradition has it that the Holy Family took refuge here during the Slaughter of the Innocents, before their flight into Egypt. Tradition has it that while Mary was nursing Jesus here, a drop of milk fell to the ground, turning it white. It is worth the visit as it is a very beautiful church.   We were happy to meet a Franciscian from Brooklyn who made us feel welcome.   It is also very interesting that Both Christians and Muslims share the same basic beliefs about this place.

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Shepherds field, seemed to be in just the right place in relation to the Church of the Nativity.  There is another very nice church and of course, there are excavations which date back to the second century times. 

We had just enough time to drive to Masada for the remainder of the afternoon.

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Masada is on top of an isolated rock plateau on the eastern edge of the Judean Desert, overlooking the Dead Sea. Masada is best known for the violence that occurred there in the first century BC. In the final accords of the first Jewish-Roman war. The Siege of Masada by troops of the Roman Empire, allegedly lead to the mass Suicide of the Sicarii ,or Jewish extremist rebels. There is no archaeological evidence to support this?  The cliffs on the east edge of Masada are about 1,300 feet (400 m) high. The natural approaches to the cliff top are very difficult. We rode the cable car today.  The afternoon heat, was well over 90 was too dangerous to climb the trails.

 

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After a long day, we enjoyed a very nice dinner at our hotel.   The staff were very friendly and entertaining.   It was great to have our Jordanian Ambassadors with us.   Sam and Sue were able to bring out the best in all the people that we encountered.  

 

 

Jaffa , Nazareth,  Galilee

Today, our destination was Nazareth and the Sea of Galilee.   Our driver suggested that we drive around the coast through Jaffa and Tel Aviv.  As you can see this turned out to be an excellent choice for a brief stop to walk a beach on the Mediterranean at Jaffa.   

 

Back on the road, we breezed through Tel Aviv, and past Mount Tabor.

In Nazareth, we visited the Basilica of the Annunciation.  The current church is a two-story building constructed in 1969 over the site of an earlier Byzantine-era and then Crusader-era church. Inside, the lower level contains the Grotto of the Annunciation, believed by many Christians to be the remains of the original childhood home of Mary.  Outside are many images of Mary which are sponsored by countries around the world.

Tagbah,

Is (not far from Capernaum) facing the Sea of Galilee is a well watered land in which lush grasses grow, with numerous trees and palms. Nearby are seven springs which provide abundant water. In this fruitful garden Jesus fed five thousand people with five loaves of bread and two fish.

Tagbah an Arabic translation for of the Greek name Heptapegon (Seven Springs) .  We visited a church here which contains many mosaics and the altar is built over the rock which tradition tells where Jesus laid the Loaves. The church is run by the Benedictines.

Peter's Primacy

In John 21, Jesus met again with the disciples for the "last breakfast."  Here he restored Peter to himself after the disciple's three denials by asking him three times if Peter loved Jesus.  Catholic tradition associates this event with the naming of Peter as the singular leader of the church.  The church here, is built around the rock which was the traditional place where Jesus stood and called out to the disciples.   We enjoyed putting our feet in this fresh water lake. 

Adjacent to this church, was a beautiful retreat house with a name of "Living Water" .  We talked our way in, as we met a Nun from "Salt, ", Suzie's home town.  We may  come back here some day and spend some time in this beautiful place.

 

 

 

 

Capernaum

In existence from the 2nd c. B.C. to the 7th c. A.D., Capernaum was built along the edge of the Sea of Galilee and had up to 1500 residents.  Jesus made Capernaum his home during the years of his ministry: "Leaving Nazareth he went and lived in Capernaum". Peter, Andrew, James and John were fishermen living in the village.  Matthew the tax collector also dwelt here.

Today the ruins are owned by two churches: the Franciscans control the western portion with the synagogue and the Greek Orthodox's property is marked by the white church with red domes.  You will see the Memorial Church and which we visited,. I took one photo of the Greek church taken from Within the memorial church.

The Synagogue

The dating of this synagogue is debated, but it is clearly later than the first century.  Excavations have revealed a synagogue from the time of Jesus with walls made of worked stone and 4 feet thick. These earlier walls were preserved up to 3 feet high and the entire western wall still exists and was used as the foundation for the later synagogue.

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Less than 100 Meters away from this synagogue, is a large memorial built over the house of Simon Peter, The Memorial was planned by the Italian architect Ildo Avetta. The main bulk of the building, which is hovering over the remains of the House of Simon Peter the fisherman, conveys in some way the image of a boat. The same idea is suggested by the wall decorations made up of stylised fish, waves and nets.  This memorial is  beautiful church with awesome wood carvings and other artworks.

Mount of Beatitudes

Our final stop before lunch was the church at the Mount of beatitudes.  Situated high above the sea of Galilee, the property affords a great view of the lake. 

Lunch at Peter's Fish Restaurant

Our driver took us to his favorite ... Peter's Fish Restaurant serves a very nice salad bar along with the "Whole Fish" (head included) special.   Needless, to say, I had the chicken, sans Head.  The beach property was filled with people enjoying the water.  We opted for the inside tables as air conditioning was glorious. 

On leaving, our driver took us around the remaining circumference of the lake.   We came very close to the Golan Heights (Syria) near the top of the lake.   Then we took the quick way back to Jerusalem .  I know that I was the only person who stayed awake as you can see some photos of the massive mountains as we headed back.

 

 

 

Jericho and Return to Amman

Today was an early rise to meet our driver for the return trip to Amman.  One thing we regret is coming to Israel near the weekend.   Friday and Saturday are the sabbath for Muslim and Jewish, respectively.  The border schedule does not yield.   With our Early departure, we only had enough time to visit Jericho before the border was closed.

This time, the border crossing was less complicated despite the surprise $100 per person charge to leave Israel.   We got home to Amman, but had picked up a virus somewhere in Israel, Poor Michael.  

Back in Amman, Colonel Sam, had a welcome home dinner at his house.  Gada, his wife, must have been cooking for an army.  Unfortunately, I was not able to enjoy the banquet she had prepared.     Sam, his Parents, Children were all very welcoming.   Sam's father Abu Bassam, suggested some tea, the Cure All for my stomache ailment.  Unfortunately, my cure would not come till the next day.

As you can see, we took a trip  to the 24 Hour Walkin Emergency clinic.  My blood pressure was hypostatic, 80 / nothing.   They gave me 2 bottles of IV fluids, some Antibiotic  and some Cipro to take home.   I had almost immediate relief from my discomfort.

Lee and Sue took a taxi ride down to the Old City, Amman to visit the Markets.   Everything you can imagine and some unimaginable things where for sale.   Little chicks were died rainbow colors as you would imagine for Easter?   

 Jarash and Amman Citadel

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Jerash has been continuously inhabited for more than 6,500 years, which is surely the mark of an especially stable place. Modern Jerash adheres to the contemporary Jordanian architectural vernacular of concrete cubes. We, however, had come to visit ancient Jerash – a vast open-air museum dedicated to the ruins of this once-great classical city.

Passing through Hadrian's Gate, we encountered a 15,000-seat Hippodrome, a forum the size of a cricket field, several temples and two theatres all leading off the Cardo Maximus ("main artery"), an 800-metre paved road which exits the city and heads north to Syria.

Such is Jerash's state of preservation that very little imagination is needed to get a feeling of what life was like here in the Classical Age.

 

 

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In the Evening, Colonel Sam took us for a ride to the Amman Citadel. Jordan is country with many hills.  There is another hill with a view around very turn.  The Citadel, was worth the trip  and we had such a nice night to enjoy the view.   Along the way, we stopped to take photos and saw yet another Amphitheater along the way.  

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After leaving the Citadel, we took time to take in the Party Atmosphere in the Rainbow Street area.  As we arrived, a street parking spot opened up immediately for us.   We had a leisurely walk along Rainbow street and took in some dessert at one of the Hookah Bars along the way.   The man tending to the Hookah, had a shirt  "I Love my Job"  on the back.   We met some interesting people at the table next to us.

 Petra

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We took a 3 day trip to Aqaba with a driver named Maher.   On the way, we visited Shobak castle which dates back to the time of the Crusades.   This castle was a clever fortification against the crusaders who were tricked into thinking that by surrounding the castle, they would starve the inhabitants.  Little did they know that deep tunnels below the castle lead to water and other food stores, enough to help them wait out the crusaders.

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Continuing on past Shoback we arrived at Petra.   Here we walked the entire way into Petra and beyond.   We had a private guide for part of the way but we continued on the rest of the way on our own.

Late in the afternoon, we met up again with Maher, our driver for the remainder of our day's journey to the Movenpick resort hotel in Aqaba.  Along the way we travelled the King's Highway.  We passed by a shepherd with his sheep.  We also saw a train which is used to carry Potash, the main export of Jordan.  The train was travelling down to the port of Aqaba.  

Aqaba Movenpick Beach and Wadi Rum

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Click on the above link, We met Sam, Sam and Sue in Aqaba after our return from Petra.   We had a great dinner at the hotel and then the Kings Tour of Aqaba with a Stop for Tea on the beach in Aqaba, looking out toward Israel.

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In the morning, we had time on the beach at the Movenpick Hotel with Sam, Sam & Sue. 

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Later in the afternoon, we met our desert driver, Eunice, for a 3 hour sunset tour at the Wadi Rum Preserve. 

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Dinner, was then waiting at the Bait Ali Camp camp.   

Return to Amman and Swim in the Dead Sea

This group of photos begin with an early morning walk on the beach at Movenpick.   Then we drove back to Amman with a stop at the Dead Sea for a swim.   We drove around the Jordan Side of the Dead Sea.   The drive was long and there are constant reminders of the border between Jordan and Israel with periodic  border  stations along the way.

On the way, we learned about Potash, the Major product of Jordan.   Potash is used in fertilizer and exists in Large quantities in Jordan.

There is apparently only 1 Railroad in Amman and  it is used to carry Potash to Aqaba for export around the world.

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Near the end of the Dead Sea, is Lot's wife, the Pillar of Stone which  tradition keeps is actually goes back to the book of Genesis, " But his wife looked back from behind him, and she became a pillar of salt"

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We stopped for Lunch at a hotel with a beach on Dead Sea.  In  the hotel lobby is a photo of that Mosaic from the St Georges Church in Madaba, which shows the fish swimming out of the dead sea.   You better believe it.  You don't want to get the salt in your eyes. There was some minor stinging with some cuts in my skin.   With proper precautions, including a no Shave morning, the experience was worth it for me. I actually despise sea water, but the unique feeling of buoyancy overcame my initial hesitancy. I did the whole treatment, including getting all "mudded" up.   Though we did swim in the hotel pool, my skin maintained the pleasant effects  from the swim for several days. 

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Farewell Dinner in Amman

On our last day, we got out early for a stop with our favorite fruit guys. This time Lee wanted some Spices to bring home.   Then Sam took us for another drive around the country side.  

In the afternoon, Colonel Sam came to take us to the church of the Redemer where in 2010, there was an appearance by the Virgin Mary to some young children.   The event was witnessed by several people.

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Again, the virgin Mary is also revered by Muslims as well as Christians.   So it was encouraging to find this church in the middle of all the Mosques in Jordan.     As a Catholic American I was happy to find this and Witness that people can coexist and get along.   

We also visited a Nearby Mosque which was very beautiful.   This was  .another nice photo opportunity

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We continued on another loop around the city for some views of the Rich and Famous of Amman.  We saw some very large houses

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On the way back we spotted a roadside party spot.  you can see tables and chairs setup for party later in the evening.   There were people riding horses in  this property which overlooked the valley. 

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Dinner was at the same restaurant as was our first .   We were welcomed by the band as they remembered our dancing from our first visit.   It was nice that we were sort of celebrity..  It was nice to have Colonel Sam's wife, Gada, with us this evening. Additionally, this night, there were many celebrations going on. You'll see photos of a bride to be... and her family.  

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