Welcome to Amman Our flight to Amman Jordan was on Royal Jordanian
Airline with an 11PM departure and Arrival at 4PM the next day. On
arrival, Sam Suzie and their friend, Colonel Sam, met us at the Queen
Alia International Airport. (12 Hours flight time) .
Jordan is GMT(+3) which is 7 Hours difference from home and 1 Hour
before Germany and the rest of Europe.
Getting out of the airport was swift. Our immediate impressions
were set for a "Vacation frame of mind." as Everyone seems
to be headed for a party or the malls. Despite the traffic, we
were greeted, often, by very friendly people. Every food
opportunity included seemingly "bottomless" dishes. Not a good
influence on the South Beach Diet. But we quickly made up for this
and kept well ahead of the next meal!
After a brief rest, Colonel Sam, our skilled chauffeur brought
the car around the first of our evening drives around the city.
There was a short stop at the restaurant where Sam and Sam
to put a hold on our table under the tent for a 9PM dinner. Our restaurant is under a very large tent and very open to the
air.
The band did not take any breaks. So it did seem
appropriate to work off some calories with some dancing. We
were not lacking in encouragement once we were discovered.
See, dancing does pay off in the end.
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Dinner included a course of Veggies, Hummus, olives and more.
Entrees typically included Chicken and Lamb dishes, some beef and fish
was rare in Jordan.
We had our first introduction to the Hubbly Bubbly, or Hookah.
While I never want to partake, I was pleasantly surprised by the aroma.
Fruity and Aromatic flavors were common. There were no
drugs. Shisha, is the name for the tobacco smoked in the Hookah, as mixed with molasses and a flavor extract.
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Mt Nebo Madaba and First view of Dead Sea
The Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan is a young country, yet it is a very
grown-up place. And anyone with an ounce of wanderlust will
be anxious to see icons such as Petra, Wadi Rum and the Dead Sea at some
point in their travels. Today's destination was Mount Nebo.
Mount Nebo is Moses' final resting place. It was from
this high place that he was able to see Jerusalem on a clear day, far
across the Dead Sea. Too bad it was hazy here on our visit.
Pope John paul II made a visit here in 2000.
The large temple here was under construction, however it does not
take much to imagine the power of this place.
On the way back, we stopped for a lunch and a walk through a
small town by the name of Madaba.
Madaba is Jordan's Mosaic city which is some 25km south of Amman.
The city likes to consider itself a haven of Jordanian handicrafts in
general. There are shops and workshops devoted to ceramics, jewelry and
embroidery. It was a nice walk around town and the shops were very
interesting.
We had a visit to St George's church which dates back to the 6th
century. On the floor of this church is a priceless treasure: the
oldest existing map of the Holy Land, created as a mosaic on the floor
of St George's Church. All the
key biblical-Christian sites are shown: Jerusalem is depicted in
street-map format, with churches and gates all visible; the River Jordan
is illustrated with fish swimming towards the Dead Sea, then retreating
from the sea's lethal salinity.
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Moses Staff at firmly implanted at Mt. Nebo.
This is a sample of the mosaic on the Floor of St George Greek
Orthodox church in Madaba.
Modern Jordan is predominantly Muslim, but Christian heritage
remains. The Virgin Mary Mosaic Workshop, in Madaba, is
staffed by women interested in learning this craft which was primarily
done by men. Mary remains as a role model for many Muslim women.
The store owner proudly showed us news stories on the Workshop, and
photos of herself with Jordan’s popular Queen Rania.
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Jerusalem
Our trip to Israel started with an early morning pickup by a driver
for the short drive to the border. The processing on the Jordan
side was quick and we boarded a Bus to take us over to the other side.
The term NO MANS LAND as we sat for 2+ hours waiting to be allowed to
cross the border. On the other side, were long lines and
lots of questions from the border people. In good time, we
were able to greet our new driver for our visit to Jerusalem.
Our first stop was a view of Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives,
In sight, was the Gethsemene Church, which was our next stop for a visit
to the olive Garden. We walked through the church.
From here we went to the old city, where the whaling wall lives.
We visited King David's tomb. And also very close by is the
Dormition Abbey, which is where the virgin Mary, is said to have gone to
sleep before her assumption to heaven.
We had time to do some walking around the area which was quite crowded.
Many Israeli soldiers were also visiting the area. It was a kind of
holiday for them. They were quite welcoming and Lee managed
to get a group of them to Pose for a photo. Of course, I got a
photo of Lee taking the photo.
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Next, on our agenda was the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. The
Church of the Holy Sepulchre, known as the Church of
the Resurrection (Anastasis) to Eastern Orthodox
Christians, is a church in the Old City of Jerusalem that is the
holiest Christian site in the world. It stands on a
site that is believed to encompass both Golgotha, or Calvary, where
Jesus was crucified, and the tomb (sepulchre) where he was buried. The
Church of the Holy Sepulchre has been an important pilgrimage
destination since then 4th century.
Immediately inside the entrance to the church is the Stone of
Unction, which commemorates the preparation of Jesus' body for
burial. This limestone slab dates from 1808, when the prior 12th-century
slab was destroyed. Ownership of this site has varied over the
centuries, but it now belongs to the four main sects: the opulent lamps
that hang over the stone slab are contributed by Armenians, Copts,
Greeks and Latins.
The Edicule is structure
which preserves the location of Christ's tomb. Though the cave here was
carved away by a Muslim ruler 1000 years ago, a clear history remains
that this has been the revered location of the tomb.
We took time to peruse the area around this massive church.
You get carried away by the masses that walk the narrow streets of
the city. You look around you and see the hundred shops proudly
displaying their merchandise in your face, in your way, over your head.
You are almost carried away by the sweet smells of spices that mingle in
the air with those of a roofed market. Galleria Malls before their
time.
We found a mural which depicts the Cardo Maximus.
Seeing this mural put it all in perspective that I was standing in a
place which is something out of the bible. It was good to be here.
On our journey back to our car we encountered some people
being escorted by police. They appeared to be from accross
the border and were on their way home,,, we hope? We were
not in Kansas any more?
We didn't have time, to visit the Coenaculum. or Upper Room where the
last supper took place. This was very close to the Dormition
Abbey.
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Bethlehem and Masada
Bethlehem is a short 30 minute ride from our hotel in Jerusalem.
We did have to have our passport since we crossed over the border into
the Palestinian territory which includes Bethlehem.
Our driver handled all the formalities when crossing the border so it
was a comfortable and easy border crossing.
First stop was the Church of the Nativity. An interesting
women's choir from Fiji was singing christmas carols outside the church
as we arrived. Inside the church
This building is the oldest standing church in the Holy Land.
Originally built by Constantine's mother in the 4th century, Emperor
Justinian rebuilt the current structure in the 530s. It was apparently
spared destruction from the Persians in 614 because the invaders saw the
depictions of the Magi on the walls. Local Muslim-Christian friendship
is believed to be why the church was not destroyed during al-Hakim's
rule in 1009.
Political control of Bethlehem has flip-flopped many times since. (The
church's famous entrance, the four-foot-high "Door of Humility," was
built not to make pilgrims bow but rather to repel looters on horse- and
camel-back after the Crusades.)
Underneath the present church floor are beautiful mosaics of the
earlier church.
The Birth Cave
Underneath the church is a cave which tradition holds is the
birthplace of Jesus. People where lining up at the entrance to the
cave and we learned that masses were conducted regularly inside the cave
but in between, it was open for a quick walk through. We
were fortunate to time it just right to be able to get in.
Down at the bottom, is a Star which marks the place where Jesus was
born.
We next headed toward Shepherds Field, but along the way we
discovered an interesting Olivewood Factory which appeared to be family
owned.
A grandson, has taken the lead to run this factory. He
took us through and gave us a small tour. He also invited us
to visit the roof of the building for a very nice view of Bethlehem
from Above.
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Further along the way, we found the Milk Grotto. This grotto, with a
Franciscan chapel built above it, is considered sacred because tradition
has it that the Holy Family took refuge here during the Slaughter of the
Innocents, before their flight into Egypt. Tradition has it that while
Mary was nursing Jesus here, a drop of milk fell to the
ground, turning it white. It is worth the visit as it is a very
beautiful church. We were happy to meet a Franciscian from
Brooklyn who made us feel welcome. It is also very
interesting that Both Christians and Muslims share the same basic
beliefs about this place.
Shepherds field, seemed to be in just the right place in relation to
the Church of the Nativity. There is another very nice church and
of course, there are excavations which date back to the second century
times.
We had just enough time to drive to Masada for the remainder of the
afternoon.
Masada is on top of an isolated rock plateau on the eastern edge of
the Judean Desert, overlooking the Dead Sea. Masada is best known for
the violence that occurred there in the first century BC. In the final
accords of the first Jewish-Roman war. The Siege of Masada by troops of
the Roman Empire, allegedly lead to the mass Suicide of the Sicarii ,or
Jewish extremist rebels. There is no archaeological evidence to support
this? The cliffs on the east edge of Masada are about 1,300 feet
(400 m) high. The natural approaches to the cliff top are very
difficult. We rode the cable car today. The afternoon heat, was
well over 90 was too dangerous to climb the trails.
After a long day, we enjoyed a very nice dinner at our hotel.
The staff were very friendly and entertaining. It was great
to have our Jordanian Ambassadors with us. Sam and Sue were
able to bring out the best in all the people that we encountered.
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Jaffa
, Nazareth, Galilee
Today, our destination was Nazareth and the Sea of Galilee.
Our driver suggested that we drive around the coast through Jaffa and
Tel Aviv. As you can see this turned out to be an excellent choice
for a brief stop to walk a beach on the Mediterranean at Jaffa.
Back on the road, we breezed through Tel Aviv, and past Mount Tabor.
In Nazareth, we visited the Basilica of the Annunciation.
The current church
is a two-story building constructed in 1969 over the site of an earlier
Byzantine-era and then Crusader-era church. Inside, the lower level
contains the Grotto of the Annunciation, believed by many Christians to
be the remains of the original childhood home of Mary. Outside are
many images of Mary which are sponsored by countries around the world.
Tagbah,
Is (not far from
Capernaum) facing the Sea of Galilee is a well watered land in which
lush grasses grow, with numerous trees and palms. Nearby are seven
springs which provide abundant water. In this fruitful garden Jesus fed
five thousand people with five loaves of bread and two fish.
Tagbah an Arabic
translation for of the Greek name Heptapegon (Seven Springs) . We
visited a church here which contains many mosaics and the altar is built
over the rock which tradition tells where Jesus laid the Loaves. The
church is run by the Benedictines.
Peter's Primacy
In John 21, Jesus met again with the
disciples for the "last breakfast." Here he restored Peter to himself
after the disciple's three denials by asking him three times if Peter
loved Jesus. Catholic tradition associates this event with the naming
of Peter as the singular leader of the church. The church here, is
built around the rock which was the traditional place where Jesus stood
and called out to the disciples. We enjoyed putting our feet in
this fresh water lake.
Adjacent to this church, was a
beautiful retreat house with a name of "Living Water" . We talked
our way in, as we met a Nun from "Salt, ", Suzie's home town. We
may come back here some day and spend some time in this beautiful
place.
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Capernaum
In existence from the 2nd c. B.C. to the 7th c. A.D., Capernaum was
built along the edge of the Sea of Galilee and had up to 1500
residents. Jesus made Capernaum his home during the years of his
ministry: "Leaving Nazareth he went and lived in Capernaum". Peter,
Andrew, James and John were fishermen living in the village. Matthew
the tax collector also dwelt here.
Today the ruins are owned by two
churches: the Franciscans control the western portion with the synagogue
and the Greek Orthodox's property is marked by the white church with red
domes. You will see the Memorial Church and which we visited,. I
took one photo of the Greek church taken from Within the memorial
church.
The Synagogue
The dating of this synagogue is
debated, but it is clearly later than the first century. Excavations
have revealed a synagogue from the time of Jesus with walls made of
worked stone and 4 feet thick. These earlier walls were preserved up to
3 feet high and the entire western wall still exists and was used as the
foundation for the later synagogue.
THE INSULA SACRA
Less than 100 Meters away from this
synagogue, is a large memorial built over the house of Simon Peter, The
Memorial was planned by the Italian architect Ildo Avetta. The main bulk
of the building, which is hovering over the remains of the House of
Simon Peter the fisherman, conveys in some way the image of a boat. The
same idea is suggested by the wall decorations made up of stylised fish,
waves and nets. This memorial is beautiful church with
awesome wood carvings and other artworks.
Mount of Beatitudes
Our final stop before lunch was the
church at the Mount of beatitudes. Situated high above the sea of
Galilee, the property affords a great view of the lake.
Lunch at Peter's Fish Restaurant
Our driver took us to his favorite
... Peter's Fish Restaurant serves a very nice salad bar along with the
"Whole Fish" (head included) special. Needless, to say, I
had the chicken, sans Head. The beach property was filled with
people enjoying the water. We opted for the inside tables as air
conditioning was glorious.
On leaving, our driver took us
around the remaining circumference of the lake. We came very
close to the Golan Heights (Syria) near the top of the lake.
Then we took the quick way back to Jerusalem . I know that I was
the only person who stayed awake as you can see some photos of the
massive mountains as we headed back.
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Jericho and Return to Amman Today was an early rise to meet our
driver for the return trip to Amman. One thing we regret is coming
to Israel near the weekend. Friday and Saturday are the
sabbath for Muslim and Jewish, respectively. The border schedule
does not yield. With our Early departure, we only had enough
time to visit Jericho before the border was closed.
This time, the border crossing was less complicated despite the
surprise $100 per person charge to leave Israel. We got home
to Amman, but had picked up a virus somewhere in Israel, Poor Michael.
Back in Amman, Colonel Sam, had a welcome home dinner at his house.
Gada, his wife, must have been cooking for an army. Unfortunately,
I was not able to enjoy the banquet she had prepared.
Sam, his Parents, Children were all very welcoming. Sam's
father Abu Bassam, suggested some tea, the Cure All for my stomache
ailment. Unfortunately, my cure would not come till the next day. |
As you can see, we took a trip to the 24 Hour Walkin Emergency
clinic. My blood pressure was hypostatic, 80 / nothing.
They gave me 2 bottles of IV fluids, some Antibiotic and some
Cipro to take home. I had almost immediate relief from my
discomfort.
Lee and Sue took a taxi ride down to the Old City, Amman to visit the
Markets. Everything you can imagine and some unimaginable
things where for sale. Little chicks were died rainbow
colors as you would imagine for Easter? |
Jarash
and Amman Citadel
Jerash has been continuously inhabited for
more than 6,500 years, which is surely the mark of an especially stable
place. Modern Jerash adheres to the contemporary Jordanian architectural
vernacular of concrete cubes. We, however, had come to visit ancient
Jerash – a vast open-air museum dedicated to the ruins of this
once-great classical city.
Passing through Hadrian's Gate, we encountered a 15,000-seat
Hippodrome, a forum the size of a cricket field, several temples and two
theatres all leading off the Cardo Maximus ("main artery"), an 800-metre
paved road which exits the city and heads north to Syria.
Such is Jerash's state of preservation that very little imagination is needed to
get a feeling of what life was like here in the Classical Age.
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In the Evening, Colonel Sam took us for a ride to the Amman Citadel.
Jordan is country with many hills. There is another hill with a
view around very turn. The Citadel, was worth the trip and
we had such a nice night to enjoy the view. Along the way,
we stopped to take photos and saw yet another Amphitheater along the
way.
After leaving the Citadel, we took time to take in the Party
Atmosphere in the Rainbow Street area. As we arrived, a street
parking spot opened up immediately for us. We had a
leisurely walk along Rainbow street and took in some dessert at one of
the Hookah Bars along the way. The man tending to the
Hookah, had a shirt "I Love my Job" on the back.
We met some interesting people at the table next to us. |
Petra
We took a 3 day trip to Aqaba with a driver named Maher.
On the way, we visited Shobak castle which dates back to the time of the
Crusades. This castle was a clever fortification against the
crusaders who were tricked into thinking that by surrounding the castle,
they would starve the inhabitants. Little did they know that deep
tunnels below the castle lead to water and other food stores, enough to
help them wait out the crusaders. |
Continuing on past Shoback we arrived at Petra. Here we
walked the entire way into Petra and beyond. We had a
private guide for part of the way but we continued on the rest of the
way on our own.
Late in the afternoon, we met up again with Maher, our driver for the
remainder of our day's journey to the Movenpick resort hotel in Aqaba.
Along the way we travelled the King's Highway. We passed by a
shepherd with his sheep. We also saw a train which is used to
carry Potash, the main export of Jordan. The train was travelling
down to the port of Aqaba. |
Aqaba
Movenpick Beach and Wadi Rum
Click on the above link, We met Sam, Sam and Sue in Aqaba after our
return from Petra. We had a great dinner at the hotel and
then the Kings Tour of Aqaba with a Stop for Tea on the beach in Aqaba,
looking out toward Israel.
In the morning, we had time on the beach at the Movenpick Hotel with
Sam, Sam & Sue.
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Later in the afternoon, we met our desert driver, Eunice, for a 3
hour sunset tour at the Wadi Rum Preserve.
Dinner, was then waiting at the Bait Ali Camp camp. |
Return to
Amman and Swim in the Dead Sea This group of photos begin with an
early morning walk on the beach at Movenpick. Then we drove
back to Amman with a stop at the Dead Sea for a swim. We
drove around the Jordan Side of the Dead Sea. The drive was
long and there are constant reminders of the border between Jordan and
Israel with periodic border stations along the way.
On the way, we learned about Potash, the Major product of Jordan.
Potash is used in fertilizer and exists in Large quantities in Jordan.
There is apparently only 1 Railroad in Amman and it is used to carry Potash to Aqaba
for export around the world.
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Near the end of the Dead Sea, is Lot's wife, the Pillar of Stone which
tradition keeps is actually goes back to the book of Genesis,
" But his wife looked back from behind him, and she
became a pillar of salt"
We stopped for Lunch at a hotel with a beach on Dead Sea. In
the hotel lobby is a photo of that Mosaic from the St Georges Church in
Madaba, which shows the fish swimming out of the dead sea.
You better believe it. You don't want to get the salt in your
eyes. There was some minor stinging with some cuts in my skin.
With proper precautions, including a no Shave morning, the experience
was worth it for me. I actually despise sea water, but the unique
feeling of buoyancy overcame my initial hesitancy. I did the whole
treatment, including getting all "mudded" up. Though we did
swim in the hotel pool, my skin maintained the pleasant effects
from the swim for several days.
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Farewell
Dinner in Amman On our last day, we got out early for a stop with
our favorite fruit guys. This time Lee wanted some Spices to bring home.
Then Sam took us for another drive around the country side.
In the afternoon, Colonel Sam came to take us to the church of the
Redemer where in 2010, there was an appearance by the Virgin Mary to
some young children. The event was witnessed by several
people.
Again, the virgin Mary is also revered by Muslims as well as Christians.
So it was encouraging to find this church in the middle of all the
Mosques in Jordan. As a Catholic American I was
happy to find this and Witness that people can coexist and get along. |
We also visited a Nearby Mosque which was very beautiful.
This was .another nice photo opportunity
We continued on another loop around the city for some views of the
Rich and Famous of Amman. We saw some very large houses
On the way back we spotted a roadside party spot. you can see
tables and chairs setup for party later in the evening.
There were people riding horses in this property which overlooked
the valley.
Dinner was at the same restaurant as was our first . We
were welcomed by the band as they remembered our dancing from our first
visit. It was nice that we were sort of celebrity.. It
was nice to have Colonel Sam's wife, Gada, with us this evening.
Additionally, this night, there were many celebrations going on. You'll
see photos of a bride to be... and her family.
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